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You are here: Home / Features / Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #100

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #100

December 18, 2016 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Whey too popular? Foodies angered by crowds at London cheese festival: It was billed as a “fromage-themed extravaganza” but a cheese festival at London’s historic Borough Market left a bad taste in the mouth of many foodies who complained of dangerous overcrowding. More than 18,000 people on Facebook indicated they were going to the free event which took place on Wednesday night and some visitors said the large numbers who turned up, coupled with a lack of organisation, rendered it a disaster.

Restaurant trends for 2017: Michael Whiteman is a striking example of a lifetime well spent in the American hospitality business. Aged 78, with a full head of hair and a wry smile, he created the first edition of Nation’s Restaurant News in New York in 1967. A meeting with the late restaurateur Joe Baum led to their consultancy business, Baum + Whiteman; together they opened Windows on the World and the Rainbow Room in Manhattan. They also introduced the concept of food courts across the world. For the past 10 years, Whiteman has been involved in another project. At the start of each year, he begins to collect information that reflects the changing nature of restaurants in the US and, by November, he will have discerned trends for the coming year. His predictions for 2017 are potentially more inimical to the restaurant business than any published before.

Long hours and low pay the norm for young chefs, says Michel Roux Jr:  Michel Roux Jr, born into chef aristocracy and trained under his father, Albert, and his uncle Michel, has a sense of dynasty – its entitlements, its myopias, its burdens, its scars – that is palpable in almost all he says. “I knew it was going to be interesting working for my father and uncle,” he once told the Financial Times. “It was more difficult for me than for other youngsters, because I had a point to prove.”

Michel Roux Jr to scrap service charge and increase menu prices: The TV chef Michel Roux Jr has said he will scrap the the service charge on all diners’ bills from the end of January after admitting his Michelin-starred Le Gavroche used the 13% additional fee as revenue rather than sharing it among staff. The former Masterchef judge apologised earlier this week for paying chefs less than the legal minimum wage, as revealed in a Guardian investigation, and announced on Friday that Le Gavroche would mark on bills and menus that no further payment was needed, although customers could still leave a tip if they wished.

Year of Upheaval for Restaurants That Ended Tipping: The owners of Huertas, a cheerful Spanish small-plates restaurant in the East Village, knew they would have to raise prices when they abolished tipping last December. But when the octopus plate rose to $21 from $16, they looked at the plate and realized another adjustment was needed. “We decided to add a tentacle,” an owner, Nate Adler, said. The extra limb costs about a dollar, but the more substantial dish eased the sting of the $5 price increase.
Lidl gravy granules found to contain paint thinner chemical: Unsafe levels of a paint thinner chemical have been found in gravy granules sold at Lidl, the Food Standards Agency (FSA) has said. The contamination affected two batches of Kania Gravy Granules, which were found to contain xylene. Customers have been advised not to eat the products, and return them to the supermarket for a full refund.
36 hours in Geneva: Geneva is like that guy, or girl, you underestimated in high school: slightly square and easily passed over for someone more dynamic. When you take a second look, however, maybe a decade later, you see a cultured, vibrant denizen of the world. That’s Geneva. These days the city offers a growing, thriving food scene; the charming district of Carouge; quirky museums; outdoor markets; great shopping — all set against the expansive beauty of Lake Geneva and the soaring Alps. Don’t be afraid to go off-script in terms of what Geneva is known for — chocolate, watches and fondue — and instead head for what’s simply the best, even if it’s Japanese food, to get a better sense of the well-roundedness of the city. Then steer toward more unexpected variations of the city’s staples. The best part is that Geneva is easily, and very rewardingly, conquered in a weekend.

Vandals destroy 400,000 bottles of Italian sparkling wine in historic estate ‘sabotage’: An act of sparkling wine skullduggery in northern Italy has left Europe with 400,000 fewer bottles of bubbly. Vandals broke into the centuries-old grounds of the Conte Vistarino winery in the middle of the night and drained refrigerated steel tanks where Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and other white varieties from the 2016 harvest were maturing.

What to drink this Christmas: the red tops: The following wines represent some of the best-priced (not necessarily cheap) reds I enjoyed during the autumn tasting season in London this year. I have divided them geographically — Burgundy dominating this year since it can be such a minefield — and listed them in ascending price order. They are mainly from independent companies, and some of those without retail premises require a minimum purchase of a dozen mixed bottles.

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