They say life is not about reaching the destination but rather about the journey. So it must have felt ironic for René Redzepi and his team to clinch a third Michelin star that has been eluding them for the past years in what was probably been the most difficult year for the restaurant. Social media was on fire as the food world applauded a decision that for many has come way too late. Noma’s photo of the three Michelin stars had over 100,000 likes and over 4,000 comments congratulating the restaurant. Instagram stories were on fire as was my Facebook feed. Rarely has there been such accolades and genuine celebration for a chef and restaurant. The last one that comes to mind was Mauro Colagreco of Restaurant Mirazur in France. Every year, pundits awaited the announcement thinking this would be Noma and Redzepi’s year only to be left wondering what the restaurant needed to change to finally clinch the most important accolade in the world of gastronomy. Not that Redzepi and … [Read more...]
The curious case of the postponed Michelin announcement in Malta
VALLETTA: Michelin works in mysterious ways. We all know this particularly when it comes to transparency or lack of it. But when it comes to announcing the awards it is normally done with a lot of anticipation and much fanfare. So it came as a bit of a surprise today that the Michelin Guide today skipped the Malta announcement. Restauranteurs and chefs were told last month that the results for 2021 would be announced on 9 March. Malta was one of the few places in Europe which kept restaurants open after summer but last week they were ordered closed because of the COVID-19 crisis. Chefs and restauranteurs were hoping for a bit of good news to boost their morale particularly since the closure came as a surprise given the previous week their opening hours were extended. Some restaurants, we are told, had prepared their communication teams for the 11am announcement. But it was not to be as they were informally informed by the Malta Tourism Authority that the event had been … [Read more...]
Dreaming of the simple things in life
It is a sunny though brisk morning. A perfect day for a lunch by the sea. If you had to ask me what would you like to eat right now at a restaurant, I wouldn’t really ask for much. The thing I miss most at the moment is a perfectly cooked spaghetti with fresh sea urchins. The last time I ate them, it was in Rimini last September but that is a distant memory. Maybe a mixed platter of grilled fish and seafood as a main course. I’m not really asking for much. I’m looking more for comfort food, for memories of better times. You’ll settle for just that you might be asking? I certaintly would not say no to a Cacio e Pepe by Riccardo Camanini. But you get the gist. The reality is that restaurants, for the time being, look like a distant memory particularly where I live. The question I keep asking myself these days is how was it possible to do so much before the pandemic came and forced us all, or at least, many of us home? And what’s going to happen when this never ending marathon of a … [Read more...]
Is Antwerp becoming Belgium’s gastronomic capital?
BRUSSELS: The Michelin Guide has released its new rankings for Belgium and Luxembourg including a new three Michelin star restaurant in Antwerp but there is one glitch. Restaurants are closed and have been closed since October and there is still no date for their reopening. COVID-19 has been devastating for Belgian restaurants. Closed in the first lockdown in March till June a relatively calm summer was followed by a difficult autumn which culminated with restaurants closing for a second time in October. Until now, there is still no date for the reopening. Some hope that the reopening could take place sometime in March, others are speculating it could well be in April or later. So the announcement of the new Michelin Guide was welcomed not with the usual anticipation. There has been considerably less commentary on social media despite the fact that there was a major shift in the hierarchical order of what many internally consider a fragmented country. The third Michelin star … [Read more...]
Summer 2020: Odds and ends
Henry David Thoreau once wrote that one must maintain a little bit of summer even in the middle of winter. You cannot really fault him with that. But there is also the other side to summer, the one where all good intentions go to waste. Finding a writing routine is always a priority for me but summer has a way of disrupting that routine. Not that I am complaining. Writing therefore ended up on the back burner for various reasons. Loss of routine was one of them but also because without realising the previous months had taken their toll when it came to fatigue. Every summer starts with the intention of finding a routine during holidays. But despite all the good intentions, every summer that routine makes way for a certain amount of spontaneity that makes writing close to impossible. Working from home, the lockdown, stress, homeschooling and no break since pretty much Christmas meant there was a level of fatigue that had accumulated which I was not even aware of. How did I … [Read more...]
(37) Brussels restaurant takes to surrealism as reopening measures are announced
BRUSSELS: Le Pigeon Noir, a Brussels institution and one of the favourite bistros in the commune of Uccle has taken to surrealism as reopening measures for restaurants were announced. The bistro, taken over by Henri de Mol in 2006, earned a Michelin star for its cuisine in November 2014 but remained pure to its core despite Michelin’s recognition. Customers of this excellent bistro were afraid that the Michelin star would change the focus of this bistro which is housed in a former café. What may end up changing everything for this restaurant, however, is the COVID-19 crisis and the new social distancing measures. On its Facebook page, Le Pigeon Noir took to irony to comment on the social distancing measures. In a post that looked like a recruitment advert, the restaurant said it was employing: A professional basketball player to fill the bread basketsTwo experienced frisbee players to send the plates (one from the kitchen and one in the restaurant)1 diver (complete … [Read more...]
(36) Noma sells out of burgers and wine on reopening
COPENHAGEN: René Redzepi's bet to reopen as a burger and wine bar was rewarded on the first day of reopening. At 7pm, Noma announced at around 7pm that they had sold out their burgers and wines on the first day of reopening. Criticised by some for reopening in the most humble of manners, long 'social-distanced' queues formed to get a taste of the Noma Viking Burger and the vegetarian burger and enjoy a sip of wine from the wine bar in the gardens of the restaurant. Local formed queues to be served at one of the world's best restaurants. When announcing the decision, Redzepi had said that ‘these are crazy and uncertain times. Before we reopen Noma as we know it, we will transform it into a no reservation, drop in only, wine and burger bar.” “We feel that we want to be open for all. We need to heal. So let’s have a glass and a burger. You are all invited,” the chef said. Redzepi said that eventually the wine bar will start serving oysters, crudités and other small bites … [Read more...]
(35) Rijks, Zoku join forces to convert 25 lofts into private restaurants in Amsterdam
AMSTERDAM: Joris Bijdendijk continues to come up with creative ideas to fight the COVID-19 crisis. This time, in collaboration with Zoku, they will transform 25 of their lofts into private restaurants where couples can enjoy a dinner prepared by he and his team from RIJKS. On May 29, for less than 200 euros per person all inclusive, 25 couples will be able to enjoy a four course dinner with a selection of wines handpicked by Max Van Bockel, the sommelier at Rijks. During dinner, chef Bijdendijk will zoom in for a personal touch. Guests will end the evening on the private rooftop terrace and the package includes an overnight stay. The Dutch chef has worked since the start of the pandemic to find ways to continue his operation. Earlier this week, he decided not to reopen the restaurant till 1 July despite the possibility to do so on 1 June. “This crisis has given us a lot of creativity and energy. It is fantastic to see what has emerged in these times and that our guests still want … [Read more...]
(34) Peter Goossens: “We need to know when we can reopen”
BELGIUM: Peter Goossens, the chef of the only remaining three Michelin Star restaurant in Belgium, Hof Van Cleve, is angry. "Last week, the security council announced that markets, hair salons and museums could reopen. But there was no word on when restaurants could reopen. Not even a slight indication," Mr Goossens told Belgian newspaper De Standaard. Until today, there has been no news as to when restaurants in Belgium could reopen and how the reopening would take place. The indications for the time being are that this will not happen before 8 June at the earliest. "We were asked to close from one day to the next. Now that things are clearer, I can understand the reason for the lockdown. The virus had been circulating and we had to do something about it. But now is the time to move forward, we need to restart again. But I see that the restaurant sector is left to the side. Politicians and virologists need to take a decision. They are not providing us with any … [Read more...]
(33) Noma to reopen as a burger and wine bar. “We need to heal”
COPENHAGEN: Noma, one of the most influential restaurant in the world led by René Redzepi will reopen its doors as an outdoor wine bar serving burgers. Redzepi said ‘these are crazy and uncertain times. Copenhagen is about to open it’s restaurants. And so will Noma. However, before we reopen Noma as we know it we will transform it into a no reservation, drop in only, wine and burger bar.” “We feel in the first phase of the reopening that we want to be open for all. We need to heal. So let’s have a glass and a burger. You are all invited,” the chef said. The restaurant will be open as from Thursday 21 May at 1pm. The reopening will happen in two steps. The outdoor wine bar will be open in the gardens at Noma which overlook the lake in Christiania. The restaurant will not take any reservations and will be open for everyone. You can stop by for a glass of wine or you can stay for more and if you are hungry there will be two burgers on the menu, a noma cheeseburger and a … [Read more...]