When Eleven Madison Park, New York reopens on 10 June, it will be the world’s first three Michelin star plant-based restaurant. Will it retain three stars when Michelin inspectors visit again? Will they make an exception? Will they see this as the sign of the times? And more importantly, can Daniel Humm reinvent himself as the world’s leading vegetable and plant-based chef having reached the pinnacle already once? For those who don’t know Daniel Humm, he is chef and today the owner of Eleven Madison Park, a three Michelin star restaurant in New York and one that has already been World’s 50 Best Restaurants no 1 restaurant in 2017. The Swiss chef is not one to shy away from challenges and his story is nothing short of fascinating. Having failed to make his mark in cycling when he was young, he set his sights on cooking as a way of reaching the top. One story he says is that of being sent home when he was young for telling his art teacher he could not draw a house he had in mind … [Read more...]
The curious case of the postponed Michelin announcement in Malta
VALLETTA: Michelin works in mysterious ways. We all know this particularly when it comes to transparency or lack of it. But when it comes to announcing the awards it is normally done with a lot of anticipation and much fanfare. So it came as a bit of a surprise today that the Michelin Guide today skipped the Malta announcement. Restauranteurs and chefs were told last month that the results for 2021 would be announced on 9 March. Malta was one of the few places in Europe which kept restaurants open after summer but last week they were ordered closed because of the COVID-19 crisis. Chefs and restauranteurs were hoping for a bit of good news to boost their morale particularly since the closure came as a surprise given the previous week their opening hours were extended. Some restaurants, we are told, had prepared their communication teams for the 11am announcement. But it was not to be as they were informally informed by the Malta Tourism Authority that the event had been … [Read more...]
Dreaming of the simple things in life
It is a sunny though brisk morning. A perfect day for a lunch by the sea. If you had to ask me what would you like to eat right now at a restaurant, I wouldn’t really ask for much. The thing I miss most at the moment is a perfectly cooked spaghetti with fresh sea urchins. The last time I ate them, it was in Rimini last September but that is a distant memory. Maybe a mixed platter of grilled fish and seafood as a main course. I’m not really asking for much. I’m looking more for comfort food, for memories of better times. You’ll settle for just that you might be asking? I certaintly would not say no to a Cacio e Pepe by Riccardo Camanini. But you get the gist. The reality is that restaurants, for the time being, look like a distant memory particularly where I live. The question I keep asking myself these days is how was it possible to do so much before the pandemic came and forced us all, or at least, many of us home? And what’s going to happen when this never ending marathon of a … [Read more...]
Is Antwerp becoming Belgium’s gastronomic capital?
BRUSSELS: The Michelin Guide has released its new rankings for Belgium and Luxembourg including a new three Michelin star restaurant in Antwerp but there is one glitch. Restaurants are closed and have been closed since October and there is still no date for their reopening. COVID-19 has been devastating for Belgian restaurants. Closed in the first lockdown in March till June a relatively calm summer was followed by a difficult autumn which culminated with restaurants closing for a second time in October. Until now, there is still no date for the reopening. Some hope that the reopening could take place sometime in March, others are speculating it could well be in April or later. So the announcement of the new Michelin Guide was welcomed not with the usual anticipation. There has been considerably less commentary on social media despite the fact that there was a major shift in the hierarchical order of what many internally consider a fragmented country. The third Michelin star … [Read more...]
What future for restaurant guides?
Guides have the potential to make or break restaurants and careers. When Michelin announced that an Italian chef had clinched a second star for his restaurant in Italy a few days ago he got extremely emotional. That image is a reflection of the importance guides have in the restaurant industry. How a tyre company became so powerful in the restaurant world is another story but as the guides enter their launching season, it is worth reflecting on what the current pandemic means for them and how they have miserably failed to turn a corner. The Michelin guide launched its 2021 guide for Italy a few days ago. Some observers in Italy thought that they would be a bit more ‘accommodating’ this year particularly given the circumstances. But restaurants that have not reopened because of the pandemic where removed from the guide and therefore had their stars removed. Maybe the most significant of those decisions in Italy was the removal of Combal.Zero from the list. The question pundits in … [Read more...]
Summer 2020: Odds and ends
Henry David Thoreau once wrote that one must maintain a little bit of summer even in the middle of winter. You cannot really fault him with that. But there is also the other side to summer, the one where all good intentions go to waste. Finding a writing routine is always a priority for me but summer has a way of disrupting that routine. Not that I am complaining. Writing therefore ended up on the back burner for various reasons. Loss of routine was one of them but also because without realising the previous months had taken their toll when it came to fatigue. Every summer starts with the intention of finding a routine during holidays. But despite all the good intentions, every summer that routine makes way for a certain amount of spontaneity that makes writing close to impossible. Working from home, the lockdown, stress, homeschooling and no break since pretty much Christmas meant there was a level of fatigue that had accumulated which I was not even aware of. How did I … [Read more...]
Who is going to take the mantle?
As cities came to a standstill, as airports closed, as streets become deserted and as people hibernated for the longest spring in our living history, many thought we were going to experience a revolution that would change the world we live in. There would be the pre COVID-19 world and the post COVID-19 world. The restaurants emptied, the kitchens became colder, the hustle and bustle of a busy kitchen came to an immediate halt. Now, as more and more countries start to reopen for business, the more things change, they more they have stayed the same. In the darkest moments of the COVID-19 crisis many thought that there would be considerable and even radical changes to the world of food and restaurants in particular. A few days ago while speaking with Andrea Petrini, one of the most influential food writers in the world, founder of GELINAZ!, an avant-garde chef’s collective he asked me “Where are the new ideas?” How are you is how the conversation started and he told me that he … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: Le Bon Bistro, a fine dining restaurant becomes a bistro on days it is normally closed
BRUSSELS: Christophe Hardiquest, chef of two Michelin star restaurant Bon Bon in Brussels announced the opening of Le Bon Bistro by Bon Bon at his restaurant Bon Bon. The bistro will open from Sunday to Tuesday and will be run by Christophe's right-hand man and sous-chef Adrien Cunnac who has worked with the Belgian chef for the past 8 years. Hugo Traineau, who worked at Bon Bon for the past four years will be responsible for the hospitality in the dining room. "We are pleased and proud to start this new adventure," Christophe Hardiquest said. In the opening of our WhatNext series we hinted at the possibility for restaurants to maximise the use of their space particularly at times when the restaurants may need to reduce their covers or rethink a certain part of their function. Restaurant Bon Bon is normally closed three days a week (from Sunday to Tuesday) to give his team the chance to rest and have a decent work life balance, Christophe has now decided to open seven days … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: Paul Ivic on the lessons learnt from the reopening of Tian after the lockdown
VIENNA: Paul Ivic, executive chef of one of the only Michelin star vegetarian restaurants in the world is relieved that the restaurant reopening has been smoother than he expected. The chef of Tian and Tian Bistro in Vienna and Tian in Munich reopened the fine dining restaurant on May 15 so he can reflect and look back on the ups and downs of reopening after COVID-19 forced the lockdown of thousands of restaurants around the world. The restaurant reopened on May 15 and Paul's experience provides a glimpse of what other restaurants are bound to expect in the next days and weeks as more and more restaurants reopen for business across Europe. In an interview with Food and Wine Gazette, Paul Ivic spoke of the first night of the reopening. "One hour before service, I was not feeling well. It was like I had lost my motivation and did not have a good feeling or vibe. I was a bit depressed but as soon as we finished the staff meeting and I saw the team motivated I immediately felt … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: How Souvenir intends to bring customers back
GENT: Viljhjalmur Sigurdarson, the Icelandic chef of restaurant Souvenir and his wife Joke Michiel will reopen their restaurant in Gent from next Monday. They are offering incentives to bring in as many guests to the restaurant as possible by offering incentives for 'bubbles' of between 4 to 10 people. Their large 'bubble' table is available for groups of between 4 to 10 people and the restaurant will offer a bonus to groups from six people onwards. "The bigger the bubble, the better your deal to come and eat in a group," Joke and Vili said. The Belgian government has announced a further relaxation of the lockdown as from Monday which enables restaurants to reopen under strict social distancing conditions. For the time being and subject to further evaluation, the restaurant excepts to serve between 2 to 3 people on the high table. The dining room will have two tables of three to four people and 2 tables of 2 people. The restaurant will also serve take away on a regular … [Read more...]