BRUSSELS: The Michelin Guide has released its new rankings for Belgium and Luxembourg including a new three Michelin star restaurant in Antwerp but there is one glitch. Restaurants are closed and have been closed since October and there is still no date for their reopening. COVID-19 has been devastating for Belgian restaurants. Closed in the first lockdown in March till June a relatively calm summer was followed by a difficult autumn which culminated with restaurants closing for a second time in October. Until now, there is still no date for the reopening. Some hope that the reopening could take place sometime in March, others are speculating it could well be in April or later. So the announcement of the new Michelin Guide was welcomed not with the usual anticipation. There has been considerably less commentary on social media despite the fact that there was a major shift in the hierarchical order of what many internally consider a fragmented country. The third Michelin star … [Read more...]
What future for restaurant guides?
Guides have the potential to make or break restaurants and careers. When Michelin announced that an Italian chef had clinched a second star for his restaurant in Italy a few days ago he got extremely emotional. That image is a reflection of the importance guides have in the restaurant industry. How a tyre company became so powerful in the restaurant world is another story but as the guides enter their launching season, it is worth reflecting on what the current pandemic means for them and how they have miserably failed to turn a corner. The Michelin guide launched its 2021 guide for Italy a few days ago. Some observers in Italy thought that they would be a bit more ‘accommodating’ this year particularly given the circumstances. But restaurants that have not reopened because of the pandemic where removed from the guide and therefore had their stars removed. Maybe the most significant of those decisions in Italy was the removal of Combal.Zero from the list. The question pundits in … [Read more...]
Summer 2020: Odds and ends
Henry David Thoreau once wrote that one must maintain a little bit of summer even in the middle of winter. You cannot really fault him with that. But there is also the other side to summer, the one where all good intentions go to waste. Finding a writing routine is always a priority for me but summer has a way of disrupting that routine. Not that I am complaining. Writing therefore ended up on the back burner for various reasons. Loss of routine was one of them but also because without realising the previous months had taken their toll when it came to fatigue. Every summer starts with the intention of finding a routine during holidays. But despite all the good intentions, every summer that routine makes way for a certain amount of spontaneity that makes writing close to impossible. Working from home, the lockdown, stress, homeschooling and no break since pretty much Christmas meant there was a level of fatigue that had accumulated which I was not even aware of. How did I … [Read more...]
Who is going to take the mantle?
As cities came to a standstill, as airports closed, as streets become deserted and as people hibernated for the longest spring in our living history, many thought we were going to experience a revolution that would change the world we live in. There would be the pre COVID-19 world and the post COVID-19 world. The restaurants emptied, the kitchens became colder, the hustle and bustle of a busy kitchen came to an immediate halt. Now, as more and more countries start to reopen for business, the more things change, they more they have stayed the same. In the darkest moments of the COVID-19 crisis many thought that there would be considerable and even radical changes to the world of food and restaurants in particular. A few days ago while speaking with Andrea Petrini, one of the most influential food writers in the world, founder of GELINAZ!, an avant-garde chef’s collective he asked me “Where are the new ideas?” How are you is how the conversation started and he told me that he … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: Le Bon Bistro, a fine dining restaurant becomes a bistro on days it is normally closed
BRUSSELS: Christophe Hardiquest, chef of two Michelin star restaurant Bon Bon in Brussels announced the opening of Le Bon Bistro by Bon Bon at his restaurant Bon Bon. The bistro will open from Sunday to Tuesday and will be run by Christophe's right-hand man and sous-chef Adrien Cunnac who has worked with the Belgian chef for the past 8 years. Hugo Traineau, who worked at Bon Bon for the past four years will be responsible for the hospitality in the dining room. "We are pleased and proud to start this new adventure," Christophe Hardiquest said. In the opening of our WhatNext series we hinted at the possibility for restaurants to maximise the use of their space particularly at times when the restaurants may need to reduce their covers or rethink a certain part of their function. Restaurant Bon Bon is normally closed three days a week (from Sunday to Tuesday) to give his team the chance to rest and have a decent work life balance, Christophe has now decided to open seven days … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: Paul Ivic on the lessons learnt from the reopening of Tian after the lockdown
VIENNA: Paul Ivic, executive chef of one of the only Michelin star vegetarian restaurants in the world is relieved that the restaurant reopening has been smoother than he expected. The chef of Tian and Tian Bistro in Vienna and Tian in Munich reopened the fine dining restaurant on May 15 so he can reflect and look back on the ups and downs of reopening after COVID-19 forced the lockdown of thousands of restaurants around the world. The restaurant reopened on May 15 and Paul's experience provides a glimpse of what other restaurants are bound to expect in the next days and weeks as more and more restaurants reopen for business across Europe. In an interview with Food and Wine Gazette, Paul Ivic spoke of the first night of the reopening. "One hour before service, I was not feeling well. It was like I had lost my motivation and did not have a good feeling or vibe. I was a bit depressed but as soon as we finished the staff meeting and I saw the team motivated I immediately felt … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: How Souvenir intends to bring customers back
GENT: Viljhjalmur Sigurdarson, the Icelandic chef of restaurant Souvenir and his wife Joke Michiel will reopen their restaurant in Gent from next Monday. They are offering incentives to bring in as many guests to the restaurant as possible by offering incentives for 'bubbles' of between 4 to 10 people. Their large 'bubble' table is available for groups of between 4 to 10 people and the restaurant will offer a bonus to groups from six people onwards. "The bigger the bubble, the better your deal to come and eat in a group," Joke and Vili said. The Belgian government has announced a further relaxation of the lockdown as from Monday which enables restaurants to reopen under strict social distancing conditions. For the time being and subject to further evaluation, the restaurant excepts to serve between 2 to 3 people on the high table. The dining room will have two tables of three to four people and 2 tables of 2 people. The restaurant will also serve take away on a regular … [Read more...]
(37) Brussels restaurant takes to surrealism as reopening measures are announced
BRUSSELS: Le Pigeon Noir, a Brussels institution and one of the favourite bistros in the commune of Uccle has taken to surrealism as reopening measures for restaurants were announced. The bistro, taken over by Henri de Mol in 2006, earned a Michelin star for its cuisine in November 2014 but remained pure to its core despite Michelin’s recognition. Customers of this excellent bistro were afraid that the Michelin star would change the focus of this bistro which is housed in a former café. What may end up changing everything for this restaurant, however, is the COVID-19 crisis and the new social distancing measures. On its Facebook page, Le Pigeon Noir took to irony to comment on the social distancing measures. In a post that looked like a recruitment advert, the restaurant said it was employing: A professional basketball player to fill the bread basketsTwo experienced frisbee players to send the plates (one from the kitchen and one in the restaurant)1 diver (complete … [Read more...]
#Whatnext: “Don’t complain, just change” – Martin Milesi
LONDON: Inside one of the most iconic buildings of London, Martin Milesi has created a unique concept that serves just one table. He has been halted with the COVID-19 crisis but he still believes that his concept is a winning one. Housed inside the St Pancras clock tower, UNA London, gives him the freedom to think away from the constraints of rents that can bring down restaurants particularly when these are closed down. The Argentinian born chef reached out to discuss #Whatnext for the restaurant world. In this conversation, we touch upon his concept, why creativity will not come from the kitchen but from the concepts and how restaurants will need to become multi-space, creative hubs where chefs run them as a business. The chef is also an illustrator and he explains the importance of art for creativity. Martin, you have a unique concept centred around a table. You pay only rent when you utilise the space. How did you come up with the concept? UNA is strongly inspired by … [Read more...]
(36) Noma sells out of burgers and wine on reopening
COPENHAGEN: René Redzepi's bet to reopen as a burger and wine bar was rewarded on the first day of reopening. At 7pm, Noma announced at around 7pm that they had sold out their burgers and wines on the first day of reopening. Criticised by some for reopening in the most humble of manners, long 'social-distanced' queues formed to get a taste of the Noma Viking Burger and the vegetarian burger and enjoy a sip of wine from the wine bar in the gardens of the restaurant. Local formed queues to be served at one of the world's best restaurants. When announcing the decision, Redzepi had said that ‘these are crazy and uncertain times. Before we reopen Noma as we know it, we will transform it into a no reservation, drop in only, wine and burger bar.” “We feel that we want to be open for all. We need to heal. So let’s have a glass and a burger. You are all invited,” the chef said. Redzepi said that eventually the wine bar will start serving oysters, crudités and other small bites … [Read more...]