Spanish chef Paco Morales of the highly acclaimed Noor restaurant in Cordoba will be opening a pop-up restaurant at the Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen between 2 July and 28 July. Paco has been riding the crest of the wave over the past few years after opening his restaurant Noor or Light as it is translated into English. Constraining himself to exploring his city’s glorious past by limiting the scope of space and time he will be taking his ‘gastro-archeology’ to Denmark mixing dishes from his world-famous restaurant Noor with more down-to-earth versions and playful tapas from his second restaurant in Cordoba el Bar. For this pop-up, Paco will prepare a unique menu which will contain both Andalusian and Danish ingredients as well as more classic gourmet ingredients like caviar, lobster, tuna and marrow. “I have managed to put Cordoba on the gastronomic world map. Now it is my ambition to bring the beauty and ideas from my vision further out into the world. Tivoli is the … [Read more...]
Reale reopens with vegetable tasting menu
CASTEL DI SANGRO: When Reale reopens on March 23, Niko Romito will present a tasting menu that represents the chef’s journey into his research of the vegetable world. The choice to reopen Reale with a tasting menu dedicated to vegetables is a response to a creative process born 20 years ago. Vegetables have often featured on his menus and some vegetable dishes such cauliflower or mushroom have become iconic. The Italian chef is now taking his continuous research to extract the best flavour out of very ingredient into a full menu which ennobles simple ingredients through creativity and intuition. “This year more than ever, I realised that vegetable dishes are those in which our creativity is expressed in a way that is powerful but also spontaneous. This is the origin of the new vegetable menu. We offer a table of colours, tastes and flavours which has hues that other ingredients lack. The keystone is preparation. It is the creative process that guides the transformation of the … [Read more...]
Growing in Strength – Brace in Copenhagen Turns Five Years Old
COPENHAGEN: It’s been a bumpy year, and the year has only just begun. In fact, it’s been a bumpy few years. The Coronavirus pandemic has caused catastrophic ripples, devastating small and large restaurants through the hospitality industry. Such an effect makes a birthday even more celebratory – proof that you’ve weathered the storm. For Brace, the Michelin Green Starred restaurant in Copenhagen, turning five years old, is both a cause for celebration and an opportunity to reflect on what has been. Opening in February 2017 under the guidance of Italian Nicola Fanetti, Brace burst onto the Copenhagen dining scene, promising Nordic-Italian cooking. Fanetti, a young chef from Malonno in Lombardy, had already spent a number of years in Copenhagen kitchens, working at Era Ora, followed by Noma and Quadri. However, eager to go it alone, he opened Brace with the ambition of blending cultures, showing guests how Italian and Danish culinary traditions can harmonise. Moving with the seasons … [Read more...]
Mads Refslund launches 12-month pop-up restaurant at Soneva Fushi in the Maldives
Acclaimed Danish chef and restaurateur, Mads Refslund, has launched a new pop-up restaurant at Soneva Fushi, the award-winning luxury resort in the Maldives. Located at Fresh in the Garden, a treetop dining destination that overlooks the resort’s extensive organic island gardens, the pop-up is based on Mads Refslund’s signature concept of Fire and Ice. “I always find inspiration in nature so to have the opportunity to cook among the treetops of Soneva Fushi is very inspiring,” says Mads Refslund. “The key focus of the pop-up concept at Fresh in the Garden is ‘Fire’ and ‘Ice’, showcasing our natural instinct for how to work with nature’s bounty. The menu is evenly split: in ‘Ice’ items are untouched by heat, allowing them to reveal their pure beauty that nature has provided; in the contrasting ‘Fire’, cooking over live flame is used to enhance the ingredients. Together, the two sides create harmony and balance." The 12-month pop-up will offer guests at Soneva Fushi a rare … [Read more...]
Interview with Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur): Finding good produce will become a luxury
Try as I might, it is difficult to remember the last person I had interviewed before Mauro Colagreco, the Argentinian two Michelin starred chef of Mirazur ranked 11th in the World's 50 Best restaurants and the first restaurant in France. It could easily have been a Prime Minister some 13 years ago on my last assignment as a journalist. It was a completely different world without social media, without blogs or smartphones, Twitter or Facebook, though already back then, my passion for food and wine was already becoming visible. It was therefore with a sense of trepidation that I asked Mauro to be interviewed. After all, who was I to ask one of the World's best chefs to sit down and be interviewed for www.foodandwinegazette.com. He gladly accepted without much fanfare. "Let's do it now," he said without giving me any time to prepare myself. True, I had done my homework earlier with the intention of interviewing him, but still, I was offering to carry out the interview in French … [Read more...]
Chef Sache – a great first day
The first day of Chef Sache 2014 in Cologne, Germany, was a huge success with some great live cooking presentations by some of the world's best chefs including Kobe Desramaults, Christian Humbs, Tim Raue, Mauro Colagreco among others, as well as a very interesting discussion about what is networking. Desramaults, the Belgian chef behind the In de Wulf restaurant is considered to be today's Marco Pierre White with his inventive cuisine and respect for ingredients. Focusing on the most humble ingredients such as a potato and celeriac, he does his best to bring out the best in even the most humble of ingredients. Questioned about where he finds inspiration he says that he does not find inspiration in books though these are important because they inform him. "To be inspired you need to think and cook like a child, you need to play around with food," he said. He also spoke about the fact that people are waking up to food scandals in supermarkets. "This is a really important issue. We need … [Read more...]
Jamie Oliver says its time to ambush fast food
As we prepare to drive to Cologne for Chef Sache (more tomorrow on this event with some of the greatest chefs in the world), we have been following the discussion taking place at the Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre in Torino Italy about fast food and cooking for children and we tend to agree with pretty much all that has been said. A panel discussion was held together with Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food Movement, Alice Waters and Jamie Oliver. These three personalities are campaigning on a daily basis so that everyone can have access to healthy and nutritious food cooked in an eco-sustainable way. We have a moral obligation to feed children food that is good for them Alice Waters said at the panel discussion that "We have a moral obligation to feed children food that is good for them." Apart from being a chef of the world-renowned Chez Panisse, Waters is an activist that created the Edible Schoolyard Network. Founded in 1994, Waters built a garden in an unused plot of … [Read more...]
Jonnie Boer: An obsession for the finest local ingredients creates the ‘De Librije spirit’
To say Jonnie Boer, chef of De Librije, the three Michelin star restaurant in Zwolle takes his produce seriously would be an understatement. When he took the stage at Chef's Revolution in Zwolle he wanted to place the limelight on his suppliers. "It is always the chefs that are in the limelight but in reality what the dish is about are the producers and their products. "So I want to pay tribute to the men and women who have been supplying our restaurant with quality ingredients over the past years." Jonnie knows his produce incredibly well and also knows how to showcase it to reach its best potential. He was championing local seasonal ingredients 20 years ago before it became fashionable to do so to the extent that he recalls how he was ridiculed for trying to serve Dutch lamb as if there was something wrong with it. His wife, Therese heads up front of house and is a trained viticulturist and wine specialist. They have been open since 1992 He presented the first dish on stage … [Read more...]
Fulvio Pierangelini – an Italian chef in exile
Few restaurant experiences have left a profound influence on my way of thinking about gastronomy as Fulvio Pierangelini's Gambero Rosso. This Italian chef who was riding the crest of the wave in terms of fame and success decided to close his restaurant in 2008 and since then has never returned back. Pierangelini, who had never taken a plane in the previous 30 years, as he himself says, has been away on a pilgrimage for the past six years. Pierangelini, an Italian, is probably one of the most enigmatic, underrated and captivating chefs of our time. He is maybe enigmatic because he hates the limelight, hates the internet with a passion and didn't even know that restaurant guides existed when he opened his restaurant in 1980 in a small fishing village in Tuscany which as he himselfs says was in the middle of nowhere. You will wonder why an evening at Gambero Rosso had such a deep meaning for me. First, when we visited in 2006, this was the first 2 Michelin star experience for my … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #3
Creativity was the theme of our post yesterday and if you have missed it, we recommend that you read it. For this week's round-up we would like to start with another chef that epitomises the word creativity. No one has had an impact on today's cuisine as much as el Bulli, the iconic Spanish restaurant which closed its doors a few years ago. His brother Albert Adria, who was also heavily involved in el Bulli is interviewed here about creativity. This is a really interesting interview. He says what really motivates people is fear. And he has a very interesting perspective about meetings, which seem to be the greatest problem of the corporate world today. "At el Bulli we only had the winter to create the menu for next season. That’s why we were very pragmatic and efficient when it came to deciding on new crockery, products… We never had long meetings. Whatever you say after half an hour or 40 minutes is unnecessary." Bruges is one of the most picturesque Belgian cities and sometimes … [Read more...]