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You are here: Home / Features / Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #125

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #125

November 19, 2017 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Why mushrooms may be the best food to fight aging: New research reveals that mushrooms are “without a doubt” the highest known single source of the antioxidants ergothioneine and glutathione, which are both associated with anti-aging properties. A team of researchers from Pennsylvania State University found that mushrooms are surprisingly full of both compounds, and that some of the 13 species they tested contained vastly higher levels than others. Common white button mushrooms, for instance, had low levels of the two antioxidants compared to some other mushrooms but still higher levels than your average non-mushroom food. The winner “by far” was the wild porcini mushroom, which is convenient since it’s also delicious. And even though some foods lose their health benefits when you cook them, the antioxidants in the mushrooms appear heat-stable and thus unaffected. The research was recently published in the journal Food Chemistry.

Jeremiah Tower Is Done With These Gimmicky Food Trends: Chef Jeremiah Tower pioneered California cuisine in the ’70s at Chez Panisse with dishes like grilled goat cheese in vine leaves and truffled lobster. His recipes have continued to influence chefs for decades. But not all food trends can connect back to the legendary chef’s dishes—and Tower definitely couldn’t have predicted anything quite like neon unicorn drinks. “Is that the all-pink and fluffy?” he questions with a tilt of his head when we spoke at the Bon Appétit offices this month. “It looks like the cat threw up,” he adds with a laugh.

Tom Kerridge Reveals His Michelin-Starred Pub Is Inspired By Retro Restaurant Chain, Berni Inn: Tom Kerridge’s pub The Hand and Flowers might have won two Michelin stars, but it’s actually inspired by the retro pub-restaurant chain, Berni Inn. For those now scratching their heads, the chain was founded by brothers Frank and Aldo Berni in 1955 and specialised in steak. The company was sold to Whitbread in the Nineties where the name was ditched and the restaurants were relaunched as part of the Beefeater chain.

Delia Smith sticks the knife into ‘poncey, chefy’ restaurants: Delia Smith has spent her career bringing simple cooking into the homes of millions of Britons, once famously instructing people on the best way to boil an egg. So it’s perhaps not surprising that for the veteran cook and TV presenter the joys of eating out have dissipated due to the culture of modern gastronomy.

Coi’s Chef Departs Despite Earning Three Michelin Stars: Just two years after taking on the leadership of Coi’s kitchen from chef-owner Daniel Patterson, executive chef Matthew Kirkley earned the restaurant its third, coveted Michelin star. In unexpected news, however, chef Kirkley had already left the kitchen when the stars were awarded. For the past three months, Kirkley has been exclusively training for the prestigious international culinary competition, Bocuse d’Or, which is held every other year in Lyon, France. Last week Kirkley and commis Mimi Chen (formerly of Daniel), officially won the right to represent Team USA during a day-long competition at The Venetian hotel in Las Vegas; now he’ll commence full-time training for the 2019 competition, which ultimately means he has to leave the restaurant. A representative for Coi confirms that Kirkley has “moved on.”

I’ve Worked in Food for 20 Years. Now You Finally Care About Female Chefs? It is an exciting time to be a woman in the food industry! Many food writers know that we female chefs are shy and retiring creatures, ready to bolt like startled deer at the first sign of loud noises, bright lights, or press coverage. In consideration of our delicate feelings, they have decided we should only be written about twice a year. Our first moment comes with the new Michelin guide, at which point the requisite articles appear asking where all the women/black/Hispanic chefs are, and why they have been under-represented in the nominations again. Then, when the James Beard Awards are announced, those same pieces get dusted off and republished.

 The cult of natural wine – ‘this is like punk or acid house’: Steve Nuttall is trying to mess with my head. The 35-year-old wine expert at boho Leeds bar-restaurant the Reliance has arranged a natural wine tasting as a primer for the Guardian, and things are getting, well, weird. “That,” I offer tentatively, sniffing an orange wine, “smells strange – somewhere between sherry and cat piss.”

36 hours in Osaka: Tourists from other Asian countries have it figured out: Osaka is the new place to be in Japan. The city’s visitor statistics are soaring, yet most Americans still bypass Osaka in favor of Kyoto and the guidebook sights of Nara. What are they missing? Recently, cool new coffee shops, restaurants, bars and boutiques have added another dimension to this concrete metropolis, the country’s third largest. Add in traditional cultural treasures and zany, only-in-Japan experiences, and it’s no surprise Osaka’s star is now on the rise.

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