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You are here: Home / Features / Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #121

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #121

October 1, 2017 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

José Andrés, a naturalized U.S. citizen, has become the face of American disaster relief: Unlike the president, Homeland Security or the Federal Emergency Management Agency, José Andrés has no responsibility to respond to natural disasters, and yet the Washington celebrity chef has become a reliable presence in disaster zones, deploying his Chef Network to help feed thousands of displaced people. Andrés was among the first responders in Haiti and Houston, and now he and his crew from World Central Kitchen are on the ground in Puerto Rico, improvising ways to feed countless residents who are stranded without electricity, drinking water and food in the wake of Hurricane Maria. With little ability to speak with the outside world, Andrés has used his Twitter feed to keep followers updated on his progress in the U.S. territory.

A Battle to Save the World’s Favorite Treat: Chocolate: The trees of the International Cacao Collection grow here in an astonishing diversity of forms, bearing skinny cacao pods with scorpion-stinger protrusions, spherical green pods that could be mistaken for tomatillos, oblong pods with bumpy skin resembling that of the horned lizard — all in colors ranging from deep purple to bright yellow.

Slovenia’s Ana Ros on Japanese cuisine and gender equality among chefs: Early one September morning, Ana Ros, Slovenia’s most famous chef, is receiving a crash course in Japanese seafood at Tsukiji fish market. At one stall, she samples two kinds of sea urchin from Hokkaido, along with an assortment of shellfish that includes ishigakegai, a large cockle with a speckled auburn shell. As Ros lifts a slice of the clam from the plate, the fishmonger scoops up a few live specimens from a tank. The bivalves appear to dance as their long, tongue-like necks dart out and curl around their shells.

Musical cookery at the Sportsman restaurant in Kent: I have heard people say they see colours when they cook, and that this is how they make sense of food. I don’t know how that works, but I can understand, as I see food and music as analogous. When I am finishing a sauce or soup, I can’t help thinking as I would if I had a graphic equaliser and was balancing something in a song. The treble is like acidity, so if I need a bit more, I add a few drops of lemon or lime juice, or cider vinegar. The idea is not to be able to taste the lemon, but to stimulate the sides of the mouth and create an illusion that the whole of the mouth is filled. It is a bit like those old buttons on stereos marked “wide” – press the button and the sound appeared to spread out and seem bigger
The River Cafe’s Ruth Rogers: ‘Do I wish we served cheaper food? I’ve thought about that a lot’: The River Cafe is so clean, even the air looks as if it’s had a good bath. Smoked glass surfaces shimmer, stainless steel pans gleam; beneath the magenta dome of its wood-fired pizza oven are piled logs so pristine that you half suspect someone was tasked with scrubbing each one with a toothbrush. The restaurant resembles not so much a scene from real life as an artist’s impression of aesthetic perfection.
The UK’s 50 best Sunday lunches: Whether yours is a roast dinner, sharing plates laden with seasonal salads, or a mound of just-caught seafood, Sunday lunch is the meal that ends one week and begins another, a stalwart of Britain’s great edible institutions and a delicious moment for pause. Here are this year’s 50 best picks arranged by region…

 

Food industry push to hide new enzyme ‘stinks to high heaven’ – activist: Activists have expressed alarm at a growing push by the food industry to hide new enzymes in everyday food products. Australia’s food regulator, Food Standards Australia New Zealand, is currently considering an industry application to use a new protein-glutaminase to process food.

Weather a Challenge for Italy’s Growers: The grape harvest is well underway throughout Italy’s wine regions, and to label this year’s crop as challenging would be a major understatement. Torrid heat and a serious drought (especially in the north) have combined to bring about intense grapes, most of which are being picked two to three weeks ahead of schedule. Thankfully, some recent rains helped slow things down so, while 2017 may not be an outstanding vintage, it certainly will be better than the disaster some had predicted only a month ago.

Amazon Dealt a Distribution Blow: Amazon’s entry into the wine business looks like a giant blimp of doom for local wine shops. However, like the Hindenburg, it may have run into an unexpected snag. With its purchase last month of Whole Foods, Amazon seemed to have suddenly gained the ability to sell – and deliver – wine in most of the 42 states with a Whole Foods grocery store. Amazon has thrashed small independent retailers in many fields, but a successful strategy for selling wine had always been elusive for it because each state’s laws are different.

Ventoux — the next hot thing: Ventoux must be one of the southern French appellations that has changed most in the past 20 years. The name has shortened for a start, from a tentative Côtes du Ventoux to the proud single word, one that has such resonance for cyclists and armchair followers of the Tour de France. You can see the testing cone that is Mont Ventoux from miles around and the local vignerons make much of the cooling influence of this landmark, by far the highest mountain in western Provence.

Instagram says those perfect-looking photos just don’t produce the results they used to: Here’s a tip for you the next time you’re about to post a photo to Instagram of your perfect-looking avocado toast, neatly positioned beside your folded sunglasses and a cappuccino with the heart drawn in the foam: Don’t.

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