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You are here: Home / Features / Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #104

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #104

January 29, 2017 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Is chlorinated chicken about to hit our shelves after new US trade deal? Consumers could be exposed to American farming practices banned by the EU. Those of us who want to eat safe, healthy food awoke to a nightmare on Tuesday, a chilling interview on Radio 4’s Today programme. Bob Young, chief economist at the American Farm Bureau Federation, made it crystal clear that any US trade deal struck by Theresa May would be contingent on the UK public stomaching imports of US foods that it has previously rejected: beef from cattle implanted with growth hormones, chlorine-washed chicken, and unlabelled genetically modified (GM) foods.

Ana Roš of Hiša Franko: Gelinaz! Shuffle and Slovenian Cuisine: Ana Ros is an articulate, intelligent and fascinating woman with many facets to her life and persona. She is the perfect example of a person using their will and determination to shine as a culinary star in a comparatively unknown part of the world. I will stay tuned for what she does next and cooks up to serve in the crimson walled dining room of Hisa Franko in Kobrid, Slovenia. This thirteen room historic building is where Ernest Hemingway supposedly wrote part of his “Farewell to Arms” and where now chef can be found fishing for trout in the stream that runs in the back of the house. Her zero kilometer sensibility is really in practice!

The hottest food trends for 2017 from the hottest chefs: Two of 2016’s biggest food trends from top chefs included boundary-pushing dishes that blurred the lines between art, science and cooking, and going “locavore” — eating locally produced foods. It was also the year that vegetables and supergrains found their way into the kitchens of practically every restaurant on the planet.

Sicily’s Superior Cannoli: A Guide for Connoisseurs—and Skeptics: Somewhere on the coastal road between the Sicilian towns of Marzamemi and Siracusa, from behind the wheel, our guide pointed out the giant reeds growing above the Ionian sea. “Those are the canna they used to make the cannoli with,” Salvatore Coppola explained. From the back seat of the car, in unison, my mother and I made the same face, the one where we purse our lips together while curling the upper halves.

The Little Kitchens That Could: Cauliflower-based pizza dough. Chocolate-covered quinoa. Bagel balls stuffed with flavored cream cheese. Vegan, paleo, dairy-free frozen dessert that is a bit hard to describe other than to say it is not ice cream. Nothing says American ingenuity like the eager food entrepreneurs who think their scrumptious concoctions can make it in a culinary landscape that favors big corporations. Earlier this week, 1,400 exhibitors set up shop at the Winter Fancy Food Show in the cavernous Moscone Center here, including some mom-and-pop operations determined to defy the odds.

Social media phenomenon ‘Salt Bae’ is opening a restaurant in London: Turkish restaurant owner Nusret Gökçe, now affectionately called “Salt Bae,” gained a huge social following when an Instagram video showing him slicing meat and sprinkling salt — in a way that can only be described as sensual — went viral.

Southern Rhônes: Burgundy 2015 may be in relatively short supply but the southern Rhône — home of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and the many villages of the Côtes du Rhône — has no such problem; it is one of France’s most productive wine regions. It also enjoyed a very good vintage in 2015 (2016 is reported to be even better). Prices, in euros anyway, have remained fairly stable, another divergence from Burgundy.

Wine: what to drink with Chinese food: It’s Chinese new year this weekend, so I’m guessing many of you will be heading for the local Chinese, or at least calling in a takeaway. So what should you be drinking with it? China is so vast and its food so varied that it’s hard to generalise, just as it would be if someone asked you to find a match for “European” food. That said, the sort of dishes you find in takeaways and many supermarket ready-meal ranges are quite anglicised, and you rarely come across searingly hot dishes such as mapo doufu, for instance.

Benanti’s “Brutal” Comeback: Twin brothers Salvino and Antonio Benanti, 42, have spent their lives side by side: growing up in Sicily, studying at business school, working banking jobs in London and then returning to Sicily to take over the family winery. In 2012, their father, Giuseppe, handed them Benanti, one of the most important precursors for quality wineries in the now-fashionable region of Mount Etna, on the slopes of the island’s volcano. At the time, Benanti had lost some of its identity, producing too many wines of varying quality.

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