STRASBOURG: Alexandre Couillon was the only chef to clinch a third Michelin star for his restaurant La Marine when the Michelin Guide announced its results for 2023 at a ceremony today in Strasbourg. Observers were curious to see what the guide would announce following the decision to remove the third star from Guy Savoy and Christopher Coutanceau which was announced the previous week.
Today there are 29 restaurants in France that have three Michelin stars, a decrease of two restaurants compared to the previous year. In total there are 630 Michelin starred restaurants in France compared to 615 the previous year.
Four new restaurants earned two Michelin stars. All the restaurants, unlike previous editions are not in Paris, a sign that Michelin is looking to reward terroir and identity of restaurants. The four restaurants to clinch 2 stars weer Cyril Attrazic in Aumont-Aubrac, Chateau de Beaulieu in Busnes, L’Amaryllis in Burgundy and L’Auberge de Montmin in Talloires-Montmin.
The Michelin guide also rewarded 39 new restaurants with their first star. Among them Italian Martino Ruggieri for his new restaurant Maison Ruggieri and another for Belgian Mallory Gabsi who not only clinched a star but also was awarded as the young chef of the year.
Speaking about La Marine, the Michelin guide said: “Alexandre Couillon rises at dawn to go to Noirmoutier fish auction, which sells the best Atlantic fish, before stopping by his own vegetable garden, just a few minutes from the restaurant. The tasting menu, which religiously keeps pace with the seasons and availability, exalts and celebrates fine ingredients, allowing them to shout their name with a simplicity that only the world’s top chefs can attain. Knowing what and where to strip back and pare down to release the flavours and tantalise the eater’s imagination is a fine art. The quality of the fish, seafood and vegetables is exceptional. Alexandre’s other talents include cooking over a fire, harvesting coastal plants, fruit coulis and vegetable pickles, broth and gutsy jus, without forgetting cooking fish to absolute perfection! Memories shine bright of both the mackerel cooked over hot embers and accompanied by confit beetroot or an incredible lettuce grilled over a flame, blueberries in elderflower vinegar and the dessert of buckwheat, caramel mousse, confit citrus fruits and sea lettuce (seaweed) sorbet. The interior has been revamped in natural materials and soft colours, while the grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon, sells produce from the artisans and farmer partners.”
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