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Grant Achatz (Alinea): A genius of molecular cuisine

September 18, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

When Grant Achatz, chef and restauranteur of Alinea walked onto the stage at Chefs Revolution in Zwolle there was a sense of anticipation among the audience. Two days of great presentations by some of the world's most avant-garde chefs was coming to a close. In that situation, anyone standing in front of a packed theatre might panic. But then again, it must have been obvious that the organisers would leave something special as the last act? It was not even a question of time. Achatz did not fly in all the way from Chicago for the presentation and leave. Chefs have a very busy schedule but Achatz and his team had been in the Netherlands for four days and were in no hurry to leave though they were then heading to Rene Redzepi's Noma a day later and then to Frantzen in Sweden. Achatz and his team made a spectacular presentation but you cannot expect anything less from this American chef and restaurateur who is often considered as one of the leaders in molecular gastronomy or … [Read more...]

Grant Achatz of Alinea coming up next

September 18, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

There has been little time to write this evening. However, this is a teaser of what to expect in our next post. Grant Achatz of Alinea, gave a splendid display of his creativity on Monday evening in Zwolle, Netherlands at Chef's Revolution and we will profile and write about his superb presentation. Alinea has been universally praised for its innovative approach to modernist cuisine. I hope the video above gives you an indication of what to expect in our next article. It is really worth watching and was used as an introduction to the presentation by Achatz. Our post will profile the American chef who runs this restaurant which has been named the Best Restaurant in America for three years. He gave an incredible presentation of creativity and modernist cuisine and talked about how the restaurant and his team approach the creative process. This is really a post worth reading not only if you are interested in gastronomy but also in particular if you are interested in creativity and … [Read more...]

Massimo Bottura, René Redzepi raise awareness on food waste – 40 per cent of all food produced wasted

September 16, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Two of the world's greatest chefs Italian Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana and René Redzepi of Noma both raised the issue of food waste during their one hour presentations at the Dutch avant-garde cuisine festival in Zwolle on 14 and 15 September 2014. When the Italian chef took the stage on Sunday evening in the Netherlands he called for action to reduce food waste.  1,300,000,000 tonnes of food is wasted each year (1.3 billion tonnes). "Is it possible that we can waste so much? Is this sustainable?" he asked. "I think it is not," Bottura said to large applause. Redzepi of Noma said on Monday that food waste was a horrific thing which needed to be tackled. "40 per cent of all the food that is produced is wasted. We have an obsession with prettiness which makes us abhor a crooked carrot or vegetable. One of the tasks we set ourselves was to work not only to find new pillars of cuisine but also to ferment our way out of food waste. Waste nothing is the catalyst to our … [Read more...]

Chefs (R)evolution finale – a feast of creativity and inspiration

September 15, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

The second and last day of Chef's (R)evolution was a great finale to the Dutch avant-garde cuisine festival. Organised by Jonnie and Therese Boer of De Librije together with publisher Port Culinaire, yesterday's line-up was a spectacular array of creative chefs from Noma's Rene Redzepi's to Alinea's Grant Achatz, Bjorn Frantzen, Sang-Hoon Degeimbre and Spanish Quique Dacosta. Redzepi kickstarted the day with a brilliant presentation of some of the dishes that are currently being prepared at Noma, the world's number one restaurant in the World's Top 50 San Pellegrino list. He spoke about the difficulty of preserving food when they had opened the restaurant 11 years ago as they faced a terrible winter and went on to speak about how this had led them to study the art of fermentation. Like Massimo Bottura the previous day, Redzepi spoke about the importance of eliminating food waste saying that this is one of the greatest problems and challenges facing the food industry. He said it is … [Read more...]

Chefs (R)evolution – superb first day

September 15, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

The first day of Chefs (R)evolution in Zwolle, Netherlands was a huge success. Presentations by some of the world's top chefs including Massimo Bottura, Jonnie Boer, Richard Ekkebus, Tim Raue and Dave Beran were incredibly well received by a very attentive audience. Bottura, the renowned Italian chef of Osteria Francescana stole the limelight with a passionate one hour presentation on fostering creativity. Aimed mainly at young chefs, many of whom were in the audience, he spoke of the importance of following one's passion, of being oneself and of being authentic. His rallying call, which was welcomed by the audience and which drew huge applause was "Study, read, follow your interest whatever this may be." Taking inspiration from music and contemporary art, Massimo Bottura announced that he would be working at the Milan Expo to raise awareness about global food waste. Boer spoke about the importance of producers. "Chefs are always in the limelight but it is the producers and the … [Read more...]

In search of better service in catering

September 12, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

We go to cafés or restaurants to enjoy ourselves, to unwind and to socialise with friends or family. Or we go to eat things which are close to impossible to emulate at home. At Food and Wine Gazette, we take great interest in excellent service and in quality. We believe that service and quality should not be the hallmark of five star hotels or three Michelin star restaurants. We think that anyone who is proud of the service or product they are offering, whether it is just making coffee or a sandwich should deliver it in a perfect way. There are many things which make us cringe but one of the worst is how some people in the catering industry handle glasses and cups. A few mornings ago, at an espresso bar, the barista making the espresso spilled a bit of coffee on the outer rim of the coffee cup. Accidents do happen. He tried to clean it up with his finger without giving a second thought to the fact that this is not done. Not to mention that he was also handling cash. This is … [Read more...]

Aziamendi 100 – a unique experience in Malta

August 20, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Malta and Michelin stars do not go together. One of the major problems in my view is not the quality of the produce which one can find on the island or the creativity of chefs but rather the fact that the small island in the Mediterranean is still too small to have a critical mass that can sustain a fine dining experience. Therefore there was a great sense of anticipation when I read that Eneko Atxa and a British entrepreneur were opening a 100 day pop-up restaurant Aziamendi which the Spanish Basque chef had opened in December 2013 at Iniala in Thailand. The location that has been chosen for this pop-up restaurant is exceptional. Located in a beautiful palazzo in Archbishop Street in Valletta (the Civil Service Sports Club) it overlooks the Grandmaster's Palace and the beautiful St George's Square. Given we were in Malta on holiday, I was anxious to try it out particularly since Eneko Atxa, born in 1977 is Spain's youngest ever 3 Michelin star chef in a restaurant scene which … [Read more...]

Tmun in Mgarr harbour, Gozo

August 18, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Visiting a fishing port has a certain allure to it. Gozo’s fishing port of Mgarr is a small but picturesque harbour which is busy particularly in the summer months with the constant shuttling of visitors from the island of Malta for the period in mid-August around the feast of Santa Maria. Mgarr harbour with its small passenger terminal is no longer just a fisherman’s harbour particularly since tourism on the island is an essential part of the island’s economy. Nevertheless over the past years, it has become the venue of a number of interesting restaurants and bars just alongside the fishing boats many of which were out at sea. One of the best restaurants on the island can be found here. It-Tmun rose to popularity in Xlendi, a sea-side resort on the other side of the island before it moved to Mgarr a few years ago. Tmun in Mgarr has gone from strength to strength. Now this is a family which is renowned in the Maltese restaurant schene. Leli, the owner of the restaurant has … [Read more...]

What I enjoyed reading this week (5)

August 2, 2014 by admin 2 Comments

  It has been a depressing week in the news. The above photo which was shared by Gambero Rosso on their Facebook thread while being humorous pretty much sums up my feelings for the week. Wherever you look in the media, whether it is the news on television, newspapers or even social media sites, you see photos of destruction. And you ask yourself why? Why is this happening? Why is there so much hatred? Please stop to think about what is happening and what we could do to try and make a difference. In any case, these are a few links to articles/video I enjoyed this week. My readers by now know that I have a fascination with Massimo Bottura, who is considered as Italy's most creative chef. Here you will find a fantastic interview about the creative process and evolution in his cooking. If you need some creative inspiration I recommend you watch it. This is a beautiful piece of writing in its own way. In this article, Eric Asimov, one of my favourite wine writes looks at the … [Read more...]

Brussels: O Liban – a great Lebanese restaurant in Bascule

July 28, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

There was a sense of disappointment in our family when Giovanni on Chaussee de Vleurgat closed a few years ago. When we arrived in Brussels nearly nine years ago, it was not only close to home but it also served one of the best Italian espressos or cappuccinos you could find in Brussels. Moreover, the cannoli (which we are so accustomed too in Malta) were to die for. Now either my palate has become accustomed to 'worse' coffee or else the Belgian coffee scene has clearly made remarkable improvements. I tend to believe that it is more the latter than the former. Italian food is clearly comfort food but Lebanese food can be exceptional particularly when using fresh ingredients. I can today say that his replacement has proved himself on many occasions over the past years. O Liban is a great place to stop for a quick lunch or dinner. It is also perfect to grab a take-away or to try one of their delicious typical Lebanese 'sandwiches' or pittas. They are all excellent using fresh … [Read more...]

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