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Chefs on TV – all that glitters is not gold

October 3, 2014 by Ivan Brincat 2 Comments

Television is not just about stardom and fame. It can really create problems for people who are not aware of the risks and pitfalls that may exist. As a former print journalist who has seen many people succumb to the allure of television only to become unrecognisable when they attain so called 'fame' this talk at the Mad Symposium by Chris Cosentino, a Californian chef is a must watch. In this case, this American chef gives advice to young chefs "to be careful what they wish for" which was also the talk of his half an hour presentation in Denmark. If you do not have 30 minutes to watch it, here is a short resume. But if you are tempted or allured into doing it, you need to really watch this video and to think before you actually decide to take the plunge. Only in this way can you be sure that you will not end up regretting it. This is important advice not just for chefs but for anyone who is tempted by the allure of fame on television. Cosentino recalls how after taking … [Read more...]

What influence do food guides and bloggers have on the culinary world?

October 2, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Love them or hate them food guides and bloggers have a way of influencing us. Whether it is a word of mouth recommendation, a food blog, a tweet or photo on Instagram, a review on trip advisor or a guide book (Michelin, Gault Milau or Gambero Rosso for example), the way we make our choices these days is very much influenced by what we read. It was therefore incredibly refreshing and thought-provoking to listen to Fulvio Pierangelini speak about how he hated the internet and food blogs. "I reached my limit when I said that food bloggers are to gastronomy what peodophiles are to love." That might sound like a very harsh statement but it is one which epitomises the love/hate relationship that chefs and restaurant owners have with guide books and food blogs. Here was one of the best chefs in the world, who had one of the most important restaurants in Europe hitting out at the internet, which had probably helped make him successful in the first place. He said (you can read about this … [Read more...]

Fulvio Pierangelini – an Italian chef in exile

September 29, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Few restaurant experiences have left a profound influence on my way of thinking about gastronomy as Fulvio Pierangelini's Gambero Rosso. This Italian chef who was riding the crest of the wave in terms of fame and success decided to close his restaurant in 2008 and since then has never returned back. Pierangelini, who had never taken a plane in the previous 30 years, as he himself says, has been away on a pilgrimage for the past six years. Pierangelini, an Italian, is probably one of the most enigmatic, underrated and captivating chefs of our time. He is maybe enigmatic because he hates the limelight, hates the internet with a passion and didn't even know that restaurant guides existed when he opened his restaurant in 1980 in a small fishing village in Tuscany which as he himselfs says was in the middle of nowhere. You will wonder why an evening at Gambero Rosso had such a deep meaning for me. First, when we visited in 2006, this was the first 2 Michelin star experience for my … [Read more...]

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #3

September 27, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Creativity was the theme of our post yesterday and if you have missed it, we recommend that you read it. For this week's round-up we would like to start with another chef that epitomises the word creativity. No one has had an impact on today's cuisine as much as el Bulli, the iconic Spanish restaurant which closed its doors a few years ago. His brother Albert Adria, who was also heavily involved in el Bulli is interviewed here about creativity. This is a really interesting interview. He says what really motivates people is fear. And he has a very interesting perspective about meetings, which seem to be the greatest problem of the corporate world today. "At el Bulli we only had the winter to create the menu for next season. That’s why we were very pragmatic and efficient when it came to deciding on new crockery, products… We never had long meetings. Whatever you say after half an hour or 40 minutes is unnecessary." Bruges is one of the most picturesque Belgian cities and sometimes … [Read more...]

The power of creativity – inspiration can come from anywhere

September 26, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Readers of Food and Wine Gazette know that we are very interested in the creative process. So as an interval from profiles of forthcoming chefs that featured at Chef's Revolution we would like to focus a bit on creativity and the creative process. What triggered our interest is the underlying theme of these chefs who in their own ways may be considered as artists. They are innovators like creators who push boundaries and find inspiration everywhere they look. As an inspiration for creativity we recommend you watch this fun video on 29 ways to stay creative. There is no magic rule to being creative. Many people ask how we find ideas to write on a daily basis. It is difficult to say other than if you allow your creativity to flow, you will eventually have a pool of ideas, some of which will work, others which can go on the back burner either to be forgotten forever or to be revived when the time is right. Writing is something we enjoy though food, wine and travel may be … [Read more...]

Richard Ekkebus (Amber, Hong Kong): Obsessed with quality ingredients

September 25, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Anyone who has been to Hong Kong knows that this is a city that never sleeps. At a crossroads between East and West, its food markets can be breathtaking for visitors who are normally surprised by the quality of the produce that one can find. What I recall and which might seem odd for Europeans is that when you go to markets there, you can actually buy live fish to take home to cook alive. It is therefore no surprise that Richard Ekkebus, award-winning chef of Amber, the 24th best restaurant in the world in the S. Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants, fourth restaurant in Asia, best restaurant in China with two Michelin stars has stayed in the Chinese city since his arrival there in 2005. And he says he has no intention of leaving the city. "I have found my niche there and I am very happy." Ekkebus is a chef that takes the quality of produce extremely seriously. You could actually feel the passion with which he spoke about the quality of ingredients he finds in Hong Kong … [Read more...]

Three women turn their passion for wine into successful professional lives

September 25, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Elisabetta Tosi - Guest Post From time to time, we bring you content which we particularly like from elsewhere. In this case, you will find this story by Elisabetta Tosi which featured on Palate Press particularly interesting. It features three Italian women in the wine world and their story.  When we talk about Italian wines, we usually talk about the men behind them, but in doing so we forget that the Italian wine world is made up of both men and women. This time, let me speak about three young women who were able to turn their passions for wine into successful professional lives; I know each one of them personally, and I would like to relate their individual adventures. Each one has a different approach, yet each is always a positive force in this world.Laura Albertini produces Valpolicella wines from her 4.5 hectares (11 acres) of vineyards at Tierra de Pietra. Originally she studied accounting but she was unhappy amidst papers and documents. Since her childhood, part of … [Read more...]

Next: When does a restaurant become like theatre?

September 24, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Could such a concept work in Europe? When does a restaurant stop being a restaurant and become like theatre? Are customers ready to pay in advance for their meal just like they do when they go to a theatre performance, music concert or a sports event? Can such a concept work? Next Restaurant in Chicago is not your typical restaurant. The brain-child of the people behind Alinea and run by award winning chef Dave Beran, they have been experimenting with selling tickets instead of serving people 'a la carte' since 2011. They can probably do that given that they change the menu and restaurant concept every three months. While the concept is now 3 years old, the restaurant has an incredible business model which celebrates creativity not only in its payment model but also by completely changing the whole concept and theme of the restaurant every three months. Dave Beran, who presented the concept at Chefs Revolution in the Netherlands recently said "the restaurant is not just a … [Read more...]

Massimo Bottura: a humble genius, philosopher, artist and chef

September 22, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Massimo Bottura, chef patron of Osteria Francescana can be described in many ways. Firstly a chef and owner of the most talked about restaurant in Italy, Bottura is more a philosopher, creative artist and genius than a cook. But. when he gets down to cooking, his creative genius takes over and that is why he is so talked about. Like many geniuses, he can often be misunderstood. Nowhere more than Italy is it so easy to be misunderstood. When he took the stage at Chefs Revolution in Zwolle, on 14 September 2014, many were expecting him to demonstrate his creativity by cooking some of the dishes that have made him world famous. Instead, he gave a 45 minute presentation which left those present spellbound and applauding many times as he spoke about his philosophy and passion. What no one knew, and he only recounted this to a few people who went to speak to him after his inspirational speech, was that his box in which he was transporting the ingredients and food preparations from … [Read more...]

Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine

September 21, 2014 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

You will have seen if you followed this website earlier this week that food waste was one of the major themes at Chefs Revolution in Zwolle with two of the world's best chefs Rene Redzepi and Massimo Bottura making it a point to highlight the problem in their separate presentations. Now, we are not great fans of the very large supermarkets which have over the years made us forget about crooked carrots or not perfectly shaped apples. But at the same time, this initiative to turn fruit and vegetables that is too ugly to sell into something edible should be lauded. A new concept in retailing is being tested in Germany. In this article in the Guardian we find a Berlin duo that has launched a supermarket with no packaging. You take your own containers and have them weighed. You shop, you take them to the till and the weight of your containers is subtracted and you pay for the net weight of your groceries. Supermarkets in many parts of the world have killed many small stores, … [Read more...]

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