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Why we should be rooting for Daniel Humm and his decision to go fully plant-based

May 16, 2021 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

When Eleven Madison Park, New York reopens on 10 June, it will be the world’s first three Michelin star plant-based restaurant. Will it retain three stars when Michelin inspectors visit again? Will they make an exception? Will they see this as the sign of the times? And more importantly, can Daniel Humm reinvent himself as the world’s leading vegetable and plant-based chef having reached the pinnacle already once? For those who don’t know Daniel Humm, he is chef and today the owner of Eleven Madison Park, a three Michelin star restaurant in New York and one that has already been World’s 50 Best Restaurants no 1 restaurant in 2017. The Swiss chef is not one to shy away from challenges and his story is nothing short of fascinating. Having failed to make his mark in cycling when he was young, he set his sights on cooking as a way of reaching the top. One story he says is that of being sent home when he was young for telling his art teacher he could not draw a house he had in mind … [Read more...]

What future for restaurant guides?

December 4, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

Guides have the potential to make or break restaurants and careers. When Michelin announced that an Italian chef had clinched a second star for his restaurant in Italy a few days ago he got extremely emotional. That image is a reflection of the importance guides have in the restaurant industry. How a tyre company became so powerful in the restaurant world is another story but as the guides enter their launching season, it is worth reflecting on what the current pandemic means for them and how they have miserably failed to turn a corner. The Michelin guide launched its 2021 guide for Italy a few days ago. Some observers in Italy thought that they would be a bit more ‘accommodating’ this year particularly given the circumstances. But restaurants that have not reopened because of the pandemic where removed from the guide and therefore had their stars removed. Maybe the most significant of those decisions in Italy was the removal of Combal.Zero from the list. The question pundits in … [Read more...]

Who is going to take the mantle?

July 1, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

As cities came to a standstill, as airports closed, as streets become deserted and as people hibernated for the longest spring in our living history, many thought we were going to experience a revolution that would change the world we live in. There would be the pre COVID-19 world and the post COVID-19 world. The restaurants emptied, the kitchens became colder, the hustle and bustle of a busy kitchen came to an immediate halt. Now, as more and more countries start to reopen for business, the more things change, they more they have stayed the same. In the darkest moments of the COVID-19 crisis many thought that there would be considerable and even radical changes to the world of food and restaurants in particular. A few days ago while speaking with Andrea Petrini, one of the most influential food writers in the world, founder of GELINAZ!, an avant-garde chef’s collective he asked me “Where are the new ideas?” How are you is how the conversation started and he told me that he … [Read more...]

#Whatnext: Le Bon Bistro, a fine dining restaurant becomes a bistro on days it is normally closed

June 10, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

BRUSSELS: Christophe Hardiquest, chef of two Michelin star restaurant Bon Bon in Brussels announced the opening of Le Bon Bistro by Bon Bon at his restaurant Bon Bon. The bistro will open from Sunday to Tuesday and will be run by Christophe's right-hand man and sous-chef Adrien Cunnac who has worked with the Belgian chef for the past 8 years. Hugo Traineau, who worked at Bon Bon for the past four years will be responsible for the hospitality in the dining room. "We are pleased and proud to start this new adventure," Christophe Hardiquest said. In the opening of our WhatNext series we hinted at the possibility for restaurants to maximise the use of their space particularly at times when the restaurants may need to reduce their covers or rethink a certain part of their function. Restaurant Bon Bon is normally closed three days a week (from Sunday to Tuesday) to give his team the chance to rest and have a decent work life balance, Christophe has now decided to open seven days … [Read more...]

#Whatnext: Paul Ivic on the lessons learnt from the reopening of Tian after the lockdown

June 6, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

VIENNA: Paul Ivic, executive chef of one of the only Michelin star vegetarian restaurants in the world is relieved that the restaurant reopening has been smoother than he expected. The chef of Tian and Tian Bistro in Vienna and Tian in Munich reopened the fine dining restaurant on May 15 so he can reflect and look back on the ups and downs of reopening after COVID-19 forced the lockdown of thousands of restaurants around the world. The restaurant reopened on May 15 and Paul's experience provides a glimpse of what other restaurants are bound to expect in the next days and weeks as more and more restaurants reopen for business across Europe. In an interview with Food and Wine Gazette, Paul Ivic spoke of the first night of the reopening. "One hour before service, I was not feeling well. It was like I had lost my motivation and did not have a good feeling or vibe. I was a bit depressed but as soon as we finished the staff meeting and I saw the team motivated I immediately felt … [Read more...]

#Whatnext: How Souvenir intends to bring customers back

June 5, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

GENT: Viljhjalmur Sigurdarson, the Icelandic chef of restaurant Souvenir and his wife Joke Michiel will reopen their restaurant in Gent from next Monday. They are offering incentives to bring in as many guests to the restaurant as possible by offering incentives for 'bubbles' of between 4 to 10 people. Their large 'bubble' table is available for groups of between 4 to 10 people and the restaurant will offer a bonus to groups from six people onwards. "The bigger the bubble, the better your deal to come and eat in a group," Joke and Vili said. The Belgian government has announced a further relaxation of the lockdown as from Monday which enables restaurants to reopen under strict social distancing conditions. For the time being and subject to further evaluation, the restaurant excepts to serve between 2 to 3 people on the high table. The dining room will have two tables of three to four people and 2 tables of 2 people. The restaurant will also serve take away on a regular … [Read more...]

#Whatnext: “Don’t complain, just change” – Martin Milesi

May 27, 2020 by Ivan Brincat Leave a Comment

LONDON: Inside one of the most iconic buildings of London, Martin Milesi has created a unique concept that serves just one table. He has been halted with the COVID-19 crisis but he still believes that his concept is a winning one. Housed inside the St Pancras clock tower, UNA London, gives him the freedom to think away from the constraints of rents that can bring down restaurants particularly when these are closed down. The Argentinian born chef reached out to discuss #Whatnext for the restaurant world. In this conversation, we touch upon his concept, why creativity will not come from the kitchen but from the concepts and how restaurants will need to become multi-space, creative hubs where chefs run them as a business. The chef is also an illustrator and he explains the importance of art for creativity. Martin, you have a unique concept centred around a table. You pay only rent when you utilise the space. How did you come up with the concept? UNA is strongly inspired by … [Read more...]

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